We spent more time in Valley of Fire State Park exploring than we anticipated but ultimately, we made our own schedule and didn’t rush through seeing all that we wanted to on our way from LAS to Zion National Park.
Day 1: Afternoon/Evening in Zion after arrival
After leaving Valley of Fire State Park, we drove to Springdale, UT which is a quaint town near the South entrance of Zion National Park.
It was around 4PM when we arrived to our hotel, Holiday Inn Express, which included a free (and healthy) continental breakfast every morning. For example, egg white and veggie omelets, fresh fruit choices, greek yogurts, oatmeal, DIY Waffles and pancakes, turkey sausage, freshly brewed coffee and a filtered water station to fill up your camelbaks and water bottles for a day full of hiking.
Springdale has a lot to offer including a complimentary shuttle service, shopping, restaurants, coffee shops, a brewery on the Virgin River and a greenway to walk/run or ride e-bikes.
After settling in to our hotel room, quickly walking the property grounds outside and resting for a little while, we were anxious to head out and hike one of the shorter trails that had promising views overlooking the town of Springdale.
A quick 5 minute drive to the South Entrance of Zion National Park, we handed over our National Park pass to be scanned, the ranger offered us a map (you will want this as it includes all of the trails, discriptions/difficulties and what stop you’ll need to get off for the shuttles to access each), and parked at the Visitor Center.
Watchman Trail – 3.4 Miles roundtrip. My watch calculated it was a bit further than that at 3.75 Miles which may have been because we did a smaller scenic route once we were at the top (definately do this…you will have better views) and we walked part of the Pa’rus Trail along the Virgin River which connects you to Watchman Trail.
We started this hike around 6:15PM and knew we needed to hustle before we lost daylight as the sun dropped behind the mountains. It probably only took about 45 minutes to get to the top and left us with plenty of time to take in the beautiful views.
We only passed a handful of people on the trail which was so peaceful. Having 3 boys at home that are all talkative from sun up to sun down, one of the first things we noticed while hiking either late evening or early mornings was the noticeable quiet all around.
We decided on a dinner spot, The Spotted Dog, and ended up having one of the best meals of our entire trip. Please go and ask for Freddy if he’s working. He was our amazing server and lead us to our dinner choices but more importantly, we had a wonderful time talking to him about his life and what lead him there, how much growth that has happened in the area in just a few years, and how it’s impacting locals.
Refueled with good food & a delicious cocktail, we were more than ready for a solid nights rest.
Day 2: Up and at ’em – Breakfast eaten by 6:30 and in the car to snag a parking spot at the visitor center to catch the first shuttle in Zion departing at 7AM. Our day’s objective was to see Angels Landing before the crowds.
Take the Zion Shuttle – Zion Canyon Line to Stop 6, The Grotto
Begin hike toward Angel’s Landing taking The Grotto Trail (1 Mile) to the West Rim trail which leads to Scout Lookout (4.2 Miles roundtrip) and Angel’s Landing (another .5 miles).
*Note* A permit is required to hike past Scout Landing and continue to Angels Landing. (Apply Here) Also keep in mind the difficulty and nature of the remaining .5 mile hike to Angels Landing. The most difficult part of the hike (for those afraid of heights) is the half mile out onto the ridge and back. Sheer drop-offs extend downward on both sides of the path in places. Some rock scrambling is also necessary. You will also have to hold onto the chain railing.
As you wind up the West Rim trail toward Scout Landing, the pathway will have many switchbacks leading up. The views continue to get better as you climb. This is one of our favorite viewpoints along the way.
Walter’s Wiggles is also another popular area on the trail.
After reaching Scouts Landing, there are restrooms and views that will take your breath away. You can continue right on the trail toward Angel’s Landing if you have a permit or left on the trail to continue on the West Rim trail as far as you want to hike. Keep in mind it’s an out and back trail so you have to hike back the way you came.
We continued on the West Rim trail and were quickly stopped by the rare sighting of two California Condors. We stood and watched them in complete awe.
While hiking the West Rim trail, I met a local couple who said “Angels Landing is so overrated. The West Rim trail is so much better and doesn’t have all of the traffic.” Hearing her say that made me feel better about our decision to not apply for the permit to hike Angels Landing. Pre-kids I wouldn’t have hesitated but something happened after kids and I have become too anxious when it comes to certain risks.
We had a picnic lunch/snack from this area on the rim trail and I have to say, the views didn’t disappoint. We were also alone until we packed up and began hiking again.
We probably hiked 2 miles on the rim trail before deciding we were ready to make the trek back down to our starting point and head to our next destination. The Condors were still on the trail and showing off.
It’s fun to hike the trail back down to see the views from a different vantage point.
Back at The Grotto stop for a bathroom break, we hiked the Kayenta Trail (2 Miles) leading us to the Emerald Pools trails. After taking the advice from a couple we met, we only did the lower and middle trails as they said the upper didn’t offer different views and there are no visible falls from that point.
Lower Emerald Pool Trail – 1.2 Miles
Middle Emerald Pool Trail – 2.2
Upper Emerald Pool Trail – 1 Mile
The Middle Pool Trail leads you back to The Zion Lodge which is another shuttle stop. Here you will find a restaurant that is a part of the Lodge, a gift shop and restrooms.
Next, we took the Zion Lodge shuttle from Stop 5 to the final Stop, 9, Temple of Sinawava.
Riverside Walk (2.2 Miles) – Takes you to The Narrows. Unfortunately, we couldn’t hike The Narrows as the water flow in the Virgin River was around 1400 CFS (cubic feet per second) and they require the flow to be 150 CFS or less for 24 hours before hiking is permitted. The extreme snow fall this winter caused the water flow to be at such a high volume.
This just means we will have to go back to Zion, right?!
Get back on the shuttle and stop at Big Bend, Stop 8, which is only available on the down-canyon shuttle. Take pictures and get back on to stop at the next stop, Weeping Rock. This .3 mile out and back trail is an easy and accessible trail for most anyone.
The shuttle service is an enjoyable scenic ride that also plays tour guide audio along the journey. We learned a lot about the sights we were seeing along the way that we had not already read in our research.
At this point we had hiked around 12-13 miles and it was only the early afternoon. We took the shuttle back to our hotel, had a much needed rest, then got ready for an afternoon/evening exploring Springdale.
Dinner at Bit and Spur Saloon – Walking distance from our hotel, we took the leisure stroll over to the restaurant. We had no trouble being seated right away but also discovered you can walk to their back property to seat yourself at one of their outdoor tables and order food from their taco truck and drinks from the outdoor bar. We requested to be outdoors and were able to enjoy the outdoor space on such a beautiful Spring day. It was kid friendly with open space, corn hole, a stage for live music performances and room to roam around. The views weren’t too bad either.
I ordered their seasonal margarita, Prickly Pear Margarita, which used locally harvested fruit. It was so delicious, we got a second after dinner.
Day 3: Observation Point (8 Mile loop) or Drive toward Bryce National Park. Unfortunately, access to this hike was closed as the trail was obstructed by a fallen boulder so we pivoted and began our drive. I read the views are worth the hike so try to incorporate it in your itinerary if you can.
Zion-Mt Carmel Highway – Arguably the most scenic drive in the entire national park system, this 26 Mile route winds around and through colorful rock formations, sweeping views, seasonal waterfalls and switchbacks. There are several scenic pull offs along the way. It’s hard to not stop at each one as remarkable beauty is all around and will leave you nearly speechless.
You will come to the Zion-Mt Carmel Tunnel along the way. Once we passed through, we immediately noticed a slightly different change in the landscape.
If you hope to see The Wave in Coyote Buttes, you’ll have to apply for either the advance lottery 4 months prior or the daily lottery. You can apply for the daily lottery when you’re in range of the GEO mapped area only. You need to apply 2 days prior to when you hope to visit.
For us, it worked out perfectly to apply when we were in route from Zion to Bryce as our itinerary had us in Bryce for 2 nights. Should we be accepted, we would stop in Coyote Buttes on our way to our next overnight destination in Page, AZ.
Mt. Carmel Junction on the way and is where we applied online, here. Our hope was that we would be accepted giving us entry to Coyote Buttes after our 2 days in Bryce National Park. Our lottery entry wasn’t selected so I was even more thankful we had visited Valley of Fire State park and saw the Firewave as it had a very similar (albeit smaller) landscape as The Wave. (All about Valley of Fire State Park, here)
Our time in Zion National Park was only a small piece of the magic we experienced on our trip.
Next stop, Bryce National Park. (Click here to read all about our two days in Bryce.)
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